obody art nürnberger bratwurst dinner menu and prices

zientek April 19, 2023 Comment

Unlike the history of haggis, which took some digging, it appears that there is lots of evidence for German bratwurst, and many opinions about who has the oldest evidence. Therefore, I am mostly going to piece together existing sources for this one, but starting with a picture from http://medievalcookery.blogspot.ca/2010/01/medieval-hot-dog-stand.html

On the website it’s described as “A rare representation of a women selling grilled vegetables outdoors.” A nice, simple picture. No surprises in terms of cooking utensils or methods. No big deal. I’m about to go on to the next image when I take a closer look at what’s in the customer’s hands. For all the world, it looks like a sausage in a bun. Maybe it’s just being served with a piece of bread? No, it definitely looks like the bread is cut down the middle, with the sausage between the halves.

Now the common belief is that sausage sellers first started putting sausages into split rolls sometime in the late 19th century, so I doubt my own eyes and post a link on a cooking mailing list. The quick consensus is that it does indeed look like a sausage in a bun. Then someone suggests that the caption on the etching might shed some light on things. My German is only good enough to know that it says something about “good fried sausages”, but a better translation is provided moments later. “Here, a decent sausage is roasted for not much money, with which hunger can be appeased but not thirst. This (thirst) can be appeased later as much as someone wants in a place where wine and beer is sold”. [

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A postmedieval document in Nürnberg with the recipe for Bratwurst is dated 1595 and was long believed to be the oldest recipe. But in 2000 an archivist, Peter Unger, found a bill for sausage skins to be delivered to the monastery of the maidens in Arnstadt dating to 1404.(2) So the Thüringer Rostbratwurst celebrated its 600th birthday in 2004. A legend says, that in the 7th century sorbish settlers entered Thüringen and caused the inhabitants to flee. On the road one of the refugees is said to have invented the Bratwurst.(3) The problem is, that nether the bill nor the legend give any clue to the recipe. The historian Michael Kirschlager claims to have found the oldest recipe in Thüringen. Much older are the records for stalls selling Bratwürste. In 1134 a kiosk is reported in Regensburg, selling Bratwurst to the construction workers of the cathedral and of the “Steinerne Brücke” (stone bridge). In 1146 the “Wurstkuchl” (sausage kitchen) was build near the salt house directly to the city wall.(4) In the 14th century the “Bratwurstglöcklein” (Glöcklein = little bell; named after a bell hanging from the wall of the chapel) was built in Nürnberg directly to the walls of the Moritz chapel. From the beginning it was quite famous and many people, including many celebrities, ate there. Its tradition lasted till the 20th century, when it was destroyed in WW II by bombs. But the original recipe of the “Glöcklein-Bratwurst” is still used in Nürnberg.(5)

There were and are still many different recipes for Bratwurst used in Germany, depending on the region or town you are in.

Čerpnjak Dorothea: Kleine Kulturgeschichte der Bratwurst. Eine Lieblingsspeise erobert die Welt. Leipzig 2005. (Cultural History of the Bratwurst. A favoured Dish conquers the World)

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In the financial statements of the Customs writer of St. Goar dating back to 1410 is a boatload of sausages mentioned (Value: 1 Gulden), which was shipped together with wine in Cologne. This is the clearest and earliest evidence for sausage, except for a document just six years older from Thuringia – the purchase of intestines to make sausages. This documents led to a bit of a dispute between Thuringians and Franks out (http://www.tagesspiegel.de/weltspiegel/geschichte-der-bratwurst-neue-historische-quelle-ruft-streit-zwischen-thueringern-und-franken-hervor/153812.htm) in July 2000:

The history of the sausage must probably be rewritten because the crispy grilled food is obviously older than thought. The sausage was mentioned in 1404 in Thuringia for the first time in a document, writes the “Thüringer Allgemeine” in its weekend edition. Previously, the oldest documents to mention sausage were from 1595 and 1613, attributed to the citizens of Nuremberg.

There is now a raging controversy between Thuringia and Franconia over the oldest sausage. “The Nuremberg Bratwurst has certainly been mentioned in 1300, ” fought back the chairman of the Hotel and Restaurant Association for Middle Franconia, Werner Behringer, against this new disgrace. By 1313 in Nuremberg there was evidence of bratwurst in the mention of the bratwurst kitchen “to blue bell” near the Sebald Church, stressed Behringer. The oldest sausage kitchen in the world was definitely in Bavaria.

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The 1432 document that was recently discovered has also sparked a debate, but this time it was over who had the oldest purity laws: butchers or brewers. Craig Whitlock wrote in the Washington post in December 2007 about this:

For centuries, brewers seemed to have history on their side. As evidence, they cited the world-renowned Reinheitsgebot, the Bavarian beer purity law of 1516, which stipulated barley, hops and water as the only permissible ingredients in the German national drink.

But thanks to Hubert Erzmann, a 75-year-old amateur historian, sausage lovers are crowing these days. Digging in the Weimar city archives, Erzmann unearthed a yellowed, handwritten parchment from 1432 that laid down the law regarding the production of Thuringian Rostbratwurst, perhaps the most popular variety of sausage in a country where wurst is worshiped as sacred grub.

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The official document decreed that bratwurst from this corner of Thuringia, today a central German state, be made only from “pure, fresh” pork. Forbidden were beef, internal organs, parasites and anything rancid.

Although the regulations might not sound revolutionary, wurst aficionados have described the bratwurst purity law as a holy find, almost as significant to German culture as a Gutenberg Bible.

“As soon as I found it, I ran to the director of the archive and said, ‘Look! Look what I found!’ ” recalled Erzmann, who has haunted the archives for years in hopes of making such a discovery.

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Food purity laws hold a revered place in the German soul. When the modern German nation was formed in 1871, Bavaria joined on condition that its beer purity rules be applied to the entire country. Even today, spoiled meat outbreaks are a national scandal and consumer protection is considered among the most important functions of government.

“The medieval regulations in Germany were incredibly modern, ” said Michael Kirchschlager, an author who writes about Thuringian culture. “When you think of the Middle Ages, you think the food wasn’t necessarily that safe. But the hygiene in many ways was better than today.”

A replica of the bratwurst purity law soon will be enshrined at the German Bratwurst Museum ( http://www.bratwurstmuseum.net), located 24 miles away in Holzhausen, a village whose main intersection is marked by a giant sausage-and-bun sculpture.”

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Http://www.kitchenproject.com/german/Bratwurst/history.htm, we learn that Thuringian sausage makers had to use only the purest, unspoiled meat and were threatened with a fine of 24 pfennigs — a day’s wages — if they did not, according to a spokesman for the German Bratwurst Museum said Wednesday.Nürnberger Bratwurst looks like breakfast links but they are different and taste so much better! The spices – and mostly the majoram – make this sausage so very delicious!

Nürnberg is the second-largest city in Bavaria with a history going back further than to the year 1050 when it was first mentioned on paper. Surrounded by high walls, it is said that the Nürnberger sausages are made so small and thin, so they would fit through the keyhole of the city’s gates after curfew. This way, travelers who didn’t make it into town in time, could still enjoy their good food. If this is true? One might wonder, especially since the money to pay for it would not have fit through the keyhole and paypal hasn’t been invented, yet.

There is a regulation for almost all foods in Germany, especially if it is a national treasure that comes with a long tradition. I.e. this sausage should not have more than 35% fat.

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Already in medieval times, these sausages had specific regulations of who was allowed to make it, at what places it was allowed to sell, and how much 4 of the sausages must weigh. Any violations however small would lead to harsh punishment! Maybe that is why Germans are so obsessed with details and quality?

The original recipe is – of course – top secret. However, we know enough to make our own at home. There is supposed to be 60% of the meat coming either from the neck or from the shoulder of a pig and 40% from the belly. The mix of spices has a focus on majoram and of course salt.

If you want, you can add some garlic or onion, some coriander if you like that. I personally like using even more majoram than in the recipe here – I really like the taste of it.